real big project help.

[Linc]

Hi everyone. I've been lurking on this board for a while and finally decided to chime in. I'm getting close to starting a rather large project, but I had some questions I did my first cross-stitch when I was 16, but never finished (monopoly board). I just recently had the epiphany that all of my 8-bit stuff could easily translate into cross-stitch and now want to start again. I am in the testing phases right now for my large project. I've made 2 small pieces to test for color and fabric size ect... and am still working on the rather large pattern at the same time. So far I am noticing that I like how the 8-bit mario (from mario 3) looks on the 16-aida more than the 14-aida, the colors seem to pop more, and seem less drab. Also less white showing through the x's. Is there a standard fabric size people like to use for something like this ?

Next question is, do I need to use a 26 tapestry needle for 16 count ? I like the needle fine, but the eye is so small that the floss rips alot during long stretches of use. I've been using 2 threads of floss and it looks good on 16, but a bit weak on 14, can you use more, or are there problems associated with adding more string ?

I'm also using a ring for these small projects and its fine, but I'm wondering if I need one of those scroll style holders for such a large project. I will be working with 4 or 5 lengths that are 2'x4' approximately, so being able to scroll through easily seems like the right move.

Last thing, when I start my thread I make a knot instead of leaving a tail and tucking it under the threads, does it REALLY matter ? I am a lazy man, so I for sure don't want to keep track of the tail of all my threads all the time, this just seems like extra work that will be hidden when its framed anyhow.

I'm excited to get this project going. I'll get some pictures up of my little tests (thinking of making one a bookmark just for funsies) soon so you guys can critique it The one bear of this big project will be that 95% of all my stitching will be background.... I thought about dying the background, but I think it will look slicker stitched. the cost being carpel tunnel syndrome

any other tips for large projects, please chime in.

[Icedevimon13]

My favorite count for video game stuff is 18, but I can easily see 16 looking nice as well. 14 works too of course, but as you mention, you get less coverage. With 14 ct, go ahead and use 3 strands and get a feel of what you think about it. It looks good, just a little 'thicker'. The only difference is the 3 strands tend to twist more than 2, so just watch out for that slight extra bunching.

I'm not sure about the size of the needle... For 16 you could use the 18ct or 14ct size, it's just a matter of preference.

Yes, a scroll frame would be your best bet, and with your dimensions, probably a mounted one. They are a bit expensive, but an excellent investment.

Personally I always do the tail thing, it is second nature to me. When I do a knot I'll pull too hard and make it go right through the hole! The only problem I could see is with matting, where a knot might cause a 'slight' bulge beneath the fabric, but I highly doubt it would be noticeable.

I can't think of any other things right now, but I'll update if they come to me later.

[Linc]

Thanks for the reply, what needle size do you use for your 18 ? I *think* I have some 18 laying around, so I will stitch up another demo with that and see if I like it better the idea is for it to look the best, but still look "pixelly" as to keep some of my 8-bit charm

I'm liking the scroll idea, and I think I can build one on the cheap, so I'll fuss with that a bit and if I end up making one cheap, I'll post the results here. Thanks again for the input.

[jelibe]

You could always check out eBay for the scrolling frames. You could easily pick one up cheap. I got mine from a car boot sale for 5 pound ( I got 2 for that price), so its worth looking about a bit. I love a bargain!
I personally use a size 24 tapestry needle, the hole is big enough for the thread and it doesn't get caught up it it. I use that for 14ct and 16ct work.
As for tucking in tails. I do that all the time. I find my work is very neat at the back and I can see where I am going when I am doing very intricate work. Making a knot leaves a bulge that doesn't look right on front when its mounted.
It takes time to get used to tucking tails in but its easier than trying to make a knot at the end or having stray thread come through when stitching.

[Linc]

Thanks for your reply
I'm interested in how you guys tuck in the tails, from what I imagine you leave a little under and just flip the piece over and cross over it 3 or 4 times, which just seems like it would take too long ...
I've never had a problem with pulling a knot through (I'm pretty gentle ). When you guys talk about the bulge when mounting, is this mounted behind glass, or just on a wall or something ? Anytime my sister has had something framed in glass I haven't noticed any bulges (I'll check when I see her work again). I definitely don't want bulges in the finished project, but do intend on framing it.

Do you have any issues with a 24 needle on the 16 ? I mean the needle being too big and stretching the holes or anything ?

Thanks again ! I should post some pics this weekend, and I might even have a scroll done too.

[Icedevimon13]

It takes a while until you get used to it, tucking tails. I don't have to look anymore. I just hold the tail with one finger in the direction I'm stitching and I end up stitching over it without problem.

The slight bulges appear under the fabric when it's backed onto the cardboard or whatever in the frame, and it may or may not press gently against the glass. Some are more noticeable than others, and probably small knots aren't a problem.

[PaperRockScisorz]

Hi there!! As far as tucking is concerned, I JUST started doing that with the piece I'm currently working on, and I like it a lot. It didn't take any getting used to for me really. I don't know if anyone else does this, but if you alternate pushing the tail a little to the left then a little to the right (depending on which direction you're stitching), it makes it easier to make sure you get every strand under your stitch. This is hard to explain, but if you think on it for a second, I'm sure you'll understand. Anyhow, straight from the mouth of a tucking noob, it's not very difficult and is probably worth it. It does make it easier to see what's going on on the back in case you need to check anything out. I was a big fan of the knot because that's what my grandma taught me to do, but I'm glad I made the switch.

[jelibe]

I don't find it stretches the fabric out in anyway, but I have always used the same size so I won't notice anything different. I've posted work on here so you can check yourself. I have been known to make mistakes when stitching so having a knot would cause problems I feel when undoing work. I mount into frames generally but recently I've done work on plastic canvas (see competition Nov, Dec) so my knots would bulge through when I backed with the felt, so I tucked my tails as I'm used to that.

Please post progress pics as I'm really interested in what you are working on.

[Bellastitch]

I used to use scrolls, but now I use Q-snaps. They're easily available online. My favorite stores include http://www.stitchingbitsandbobs.com (look under gadgets) and http://www.abcstitch.com. The q-snaps are square or rectangle (depending on what size you get), the parts are interchangeable and you can easily mount your fabric on them with much less fuss than scrolls. I like using size 28 tapestry needles. Piecemakers are my preferred brand. See the stores mentioned above if you want to try them The eyes on the needles are bigger than regular sewing needles. You can also use a threader.

I forgot to add something! Make sure your floss lengths aren't too long. I try to keep mine around 12 inches. If its too long, its more likely to get tangled and/or knot. Also longer threads/floss will start to fray and the last stitches won't look as nice as the first ones. To avoid thread bunching or twisting, you can "railroad". You just run the needle in between the two threads as you stitch, keeping the two straight and separate.

[Linc]

Thanks for all the replies, sorry I've been away, its finals next week in school so I'm crunched
I built a few sizes of cross-stitch scrolls over the weekend for cheap and it was pretty darn easy, so I can post those if there is any interest. I also built a rotating/adjustable floor stand to hold them while I work, which I can also post pictures of.
Tonight I'll try to get pictures of everything including the stuff I'm working on.