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Framing your work

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aoicat
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Framing your work

Post by aoicat »

I've got a few projects lying around that I'd like to frame. Anyone have any advice on how best to do it. I'm sure there's a bit more to it than just cutting a piece of matting and slapping it all in a frame.

Pyper
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Re: Framing your work

Post by Pyper »

Eliste posted a really good instruction set for finishing off projects, I'm always referring back to it:
http://withoutastitchon.blogspot.com.au ... rview.html
WIPS: Dwarf Fortress blanket, sailing ship stitch, shiny pokemon, moth bags
Blog: http://strangenessisconserved.wordpress.com/

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aoicat
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Re: Framing your work

Post by aoicat »

Thank you for that. It looks like some pretty good information in there.

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fangy89
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Re: Framing your work

Post by fangy89 »

PLEASE please please please don't use masking tape when framing anything! It's highly acidic and will not only stain whatever it's touching but over time will become brittle and start crumbling. I was a professional framer for 6 years and I can't count how many times I'd been deeply saddened by beautiful or valuable pieces that were destroyed or ruined by masking tape, or even worse scotch tape. If you're going to be mounting your pieces, the best adhesive to use is acid-free double sided tape which is available in the scrapbooking section in pretty much all craft stores. Personally, I find lacing to be time-consuming and quite unforgiving if you're not paying attention to how straight your work is being stretched, so I use the pinning method. This involves using foamcore board, 3/16" and acid-free preferably which most custom framing stores can sell or order for you for dirt cheap, and stainless steel dressmaker pins. Measure your piece from farthest stitch to farthest stitch (or add some space for a blank "border" to give your piece breathing room), let's use 5x7 as an example. If you're going to be matting it then go in 1/4" on all sides so the mat has something to grab onto, which would make our example 4.5x6.5. When I have my measurements figured out I take 1 pin for each side and weave it into the holes at my measurement marks, perpendicular to the stitched piece. You want to make sure your foamboard is cut to these measurements as well, but 1/2" bigger on all sides if you're matting it, (again most "on the premises" framing places should cut it down for you free of charge) and then you take your piece, fold it over the foamboard at your pin marks, center it, and use more pins to push into the row of holes and into the foam part of the board. I usually start with a couple at first to hold it down while I pull and center the other side, and it's easiest to not push the pins down all the way until you're done since it's a (sometimes literal) pain to pull them out. Once you're all done and your piece is nice and pretty and straight, push down all the pins and fold over any excess cloth you may have. From here you can either use the double-sided tape to hold the folded over fabric down (may not hold that well since it's not meant for cloth but if you can get some linen tape it's the bestest thing everrrr) or you can carefully use the pins at a sharp (ha!) angle to go through the cloth and into the foamboard but not out the other side.
As for framing, it's nearly impossible to get close to the preservation quality offered by a (good. I stress the word good here) custom framer unless you want to invest hundreds of dollars on conservation supplies. The glass that comes in all floor frames is pretty much thinner window glass which I lovingly refer to as "fishtank glass" due to the wonderful green hue it gives to things it's placed over, and it offers absolutely nothing in the ways of conservation...except for keeping dust off your piece. Most if not all mats that come with the frames or that you buy off the floor are not acid free and WILL discolor and do bad ugly things over time. And please, for the love of all things good and to keep your sanity, do not use those horrendous accursed do-it-yourself sticky boards!
Finally, if you're having your piece custom framed, make sure you trim off those unwanted threads on the back of your piece especially if your cloth is white or light. A surprising amount of people forget this little detail and are upset when they get their framed piece only to see all those lovely little threads visible from the front. It's good to ask, especially if you're as suspicious as I am and also have a hobby of interrogating framers haha) if a place you're considering using will wash, press or trim those pieces for you because if they say "yes" you do NOT want to do business with them unless you personally know and trust them. This, generally speaking from my years of experience and questioning, is usually a sign of a "cut first ask questions later" type of frame shop which are never a good thing.
Sorry about the essay but I hope this helps someone at least lol I can also upload pics if anyone is confused since I have an exceptional skill of confusing people :D

Edit: In all my rambling I forgot to mention a crucial thing, which is the importance of air circulation! A lot of people opt not to use glass over their piece at all, which does make it a bit "high maintenance" with the dusting and all but you don't have to worry about moisture build up that way. If you're going that route, it's best not to use matting since mat board needs the glass as protection or else it will warp and bow and do more bad ugly things. If you're going with glass I would HIGHLY recommend using glass spacers, regardless of if you put matting on it or not. 3-4 ply mat board is not very thick and doesn't really provide a whole lot of circulation room, whereas the spacers generally come in 1/4" thickness and will give plenty of breathing room. Only time this wouldn't be necessary would be if you were to use an 8-ply mat, which are very lovely in general because of the dramatic bevel they provide. Okay now I'm done I promise

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Eliste
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Re: Framing your work

Post by Eliste »

Hmm, interesting. I didn't realize masking tape would do that. I'll adjust my original post to put in your suggestions. Learn something new every day!
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fangy89
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Re: Framing your work

Post by fangy89 »

There are "acid-free" masking tapes used for art purposes but I've never been one to trust anything you can't "roll" off versus peeling off, especially with anything that has the potential to fray. That could very well just be me though lol
Also, I apologize if my ranting came across as me going RAHHHH shoot down what you said, my intention was just to throw my info in there ^^;

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Eliste
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Re: Framing your work

Post by Eliste »

No no, it makes perfect sense. I knew about a lot of the acid free stuff from my photography side, but hadn't realised there was an issue with masking tape. I've used it a lot and never had an issue before, but now I'll definitely try to get myself some of the better stuff for next time!
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